Day 79 - Tuesday, August 30

Linda

When we woke up this morning we discovered we were almost in the back yard of the Panorama Restaurant that we'd heard a lot about. We didn't stop to eat there, but didn't feel too bad, since we would be taking off some time and indulging in goodies when we meet the families at Peaks of Otter in a few days. The trail up Mary's Rocks climbs 1,200 feet in 1.5 miles, but it is all graded switchbacks, and went by with not too much effort. On of my contacts just popped out for no particular reason, but fortunately I found it right away and put it back in. Hope that doesn't happen again, or I might not be so lucky. We took the side trail to the top of the rocks and sat for a while reveling in the breeze and the view. It was so tranquil up there - I could have sat all day, but we eventually tore ourselves away to search for water before going on. The water fountain at Byrd's Nest Shelter #3 was working, so we were in luck.

The next climb was over the Pinnacle, then down to Jewel Hollow where we took a snack break. We were trying to figure out what our mileage would have to be to get to Waynesboro in time for Labor Day, and after calculating several long-haul days, we decided to re-evaluate our priorities. The weather had been too hot and humid to comfortably push long days, and the park is too beautiful to rush through anyway. We decided to slow down and take it easy. Ronald abandoned his idea of a 24 hour marathon, and we figured we'd just walk as far as we could by Thursday, hitchhike to Waynesboro, then come back on Monday and pick up where we'd left off. I was really glad for our change in attitude, because I hate to rush by all these places I have never noticed before.

A few minutes later at the Pinnacles Picnic Ground we came across a sign that we couldn't resist taking a picture of. It encouraged the picnickers to take a short hike on the famous 2,000 mile footpath from Maine to Georgia. Of course, that section was paved, so as not to strain the tender feet of the tourists. Actually, they should move all the paving to Pennsylvania if they wanted to do something constructive. We continued on to Little Stoney Man Mountain and enjoyed another great view. From there we could see the rocky cliffs of Stoney Man and up to Skyland. Rand jetted by us while we were taking in the view. We don't expect to see him for a while. The trail between there and Skyland was very pleasant. The rocks overhang the trail, making it shady and cool, with an occasional trickle of water dripping down off the rocks. That provided wonderful relief from the heat of the day.

We reached Skyland at lunchtime, and didn't realize what a big complex it was. There's a hotel, cabins, snack bar and a big restaurant and gift shop. We bought a couple ice cream bars each and drinks, then sat on the lawn and ate lunch. We had come 9.4 miles so far today. After lunch we went on toward Hawksbill Gap, then Hawksbill Mountain. The trail skirts around the top of Hawksbill, so the climb isn't too strenuous. The cool morning had long since given way to a hot humid afternoon, and we were beginning to wear down. Went past Franklin Cliffs after going way down some unnamed hollow, so we ended up walking up to Fisher's Gap. It would seem that you ought to walk down to a gap, but the good old AT is full of surprises to keep us on our toes. Stopped at the gap for a break hoping there would be water at the overlook, but no luck. As it was only a mile to Big Meadows Campground, we figured we could get water there, then go to the Lewis Springs Shelter for dinner and assessment of whether or not to go further.

It was an easy 500 foot ascent up to the campground, and I was rather enjoying the wide trail which wound through a lovely pine covered area, so I didn't realize Ronald was in such bad shape. The heat seems to be bothering him worse than me, and he was on the verge of collapse when we reached the campground. We put our packs down and walked over to get some water. I immediately mixed a quart of tea and poured it down his throat, along with some munchies, to get him going. However, before we could start walking again, a huge thunderstorm hit. Within seconds it had become a deluge, so we threw on the raingear and walked around the nature trail through the picnic grounds to the entrance station to wait out the lightening.

Since there was a phone there, I called Dad to find out if anything new had developed for the weekend. I was glad to hear they are planning to come up on Sunday. I was hoping they could make it, since everyone else was planning to be there. The rain stopped in a few minutes, but the lightening and thunder continued. We asked the ranger about the shelter, and she informed us it had been torn down due to a sewer project. Another bite! Here we were in a mass of humanity and civilization, in the middle of a lightening storm, with nowhere to go and no prospects for shelter. Even in the total wilderness of Maine, we could always depend on being able to sleep in a shelter. Somehow that doesn't quite seem right.

Anyway, we were sure it would pour again soon, so we quickly fixed dinner in the picnic grounds, then continued on the trail. When we got to the Lewis Falls area we were greeted by the sight of the wonderful sewer project. We tried to find a place to put up the tent, but efforts were futile. We walked on through a beautiful grassy area on a good, but narrow trail. Passed an open area by a cemetery, but opted not to camp there. I wanted to rest, but not that much. We went almost all the way to Milam Gap before finding a soft grass-covered campsite off the trail. At least the second downpour never materialized. It had been sprinkling since we left Big Meadows, but stopped about the time we did. We hiked 19.3 miles today. I'm certainly glad we slowed down our pace, or the heat would have gotten to us even more. Maybe it will break tomorrow.

Ron

I slept like a log last night despite the dreadful down hill tilt to the tent. Fortunately the rain did not appear and we did not have to pack a wet tent. After the usual dull breakfast were on our way. Within a few minutes Linda froze dead in her tracks. One of her contacts had fallen out. She had stopped so quickly she didn't even lower her foot. I searched the area around her with no success. When she put her foot down the contact fell to the ground. The contact had popped out and landed on her thigh. I quickly retrieved it, thankful that it was not lost. A couple minutes later we were on our way.

The trail was switch-backed all the way up to Mary's Rock. This allowed us good climbing. In the park the trail is so well built that it looks like an old railroad bed. We spent several minutes on the rocks enjoying the views. Even with the haze, the views were great. At Byrd Shelter #3 we refilled our water bottles and gazed at one of the many excellent but none too useful shelters that dot the trail in the park. Because of the crowed hiking conditions in the park, these stone shelters are now off limits for overnight stays. It seems like a waste.

We had a good laugh at the Pinnacles picnic grounds over a sign about the Appalachian Trail that was placed on a paved section of the trail. Rand passed us at an overlook on the trail at Stony Mountain. He was planning to push for awhile. He said he was going to take four days off over Labor Day. We wished him luck and I guess we will see him later down the trail. We have decided not to push our way though the park. We have been pushing ourselves hard too long through areas we did not enjoy. We don't want to push hard in such a beautiful area.

Made it as far as Skyland for lunch. Along with our usual lunch, we consumed several cans of pop and ice cream. These drink stops are nice even if they do get expensive after awhile. The heat of the afternoon kept our pace in check. The trail was good with excellent views, but the heat was oppressive. We stopped at Fishers Gap in hopes of obtaining water, but were unsuccessful. After a rest we pushed on to Big Meadows. The climb up to the campground did a number on me. My energy was drained away. I could think and talk clearly but my body seemed to move in another world.

At the campground I sat down and refused to move without food. We paused long enough for me to recover and for a storm to begin. We donned rain gear and kept going. There was some confusion between the guide books and the trail signs on the existence of the next shelter. So we headed over to the ranger station to check it out. We were told by the ranger that the shelter had been removed. By the time we left the station, the rain had subsided and we went to the picnic grounds to fix supper. After supper we left the masses of confused humanity for the solitude of the trail. We found a nice camp site a half mile from Milam Gap and called it a day.

(19.3 Miles - 1229.3 Total)